2016 Wr250r Changes Admin Desember 03, 2021 2016 Wr250r Changes I like the shirts also, white please.... greer Long timer Supporter Here's the gist of my post (that Sarah just linked to): All you need to do for grip heaters is pull power from the battery, but only when the key is on. This keeps you from accidentally leaving the grips on and draining the battery. To do this, a simple $4-6 12V auto relay is used: 12 V relays are pretty simple: they have 4 labeled terminals that you wire as follows: * 87 : this goes to your ACCESSORY that you are adding (in this case, this is wired to the positive lead for the grip heaters)<nobr style="font-weight: normal; font-size: 100%; color: darkgreen;" id="itxt_nobr_14_0"></nobr> * 85 : Connect to GROUND * 86 : Connect to any KEY-ON power source (I happened to use the blue positive wire for front running lights - use any wire that has power when the key is "ON") * 30 : Connects to the BATTERY (+ terminal). Definitely use nice thick wire, and install a fuse between the battery and the relay, as shown in the image above. So why not get power for the heated grips directly from the key-on circuit? Well, most bikes are wired with the bare minimum gauge of wire to get the job done. You tie a large-load accessory like heated grips, jacket or lights directly into an already stressed circuit, and you're almost guaranteed a blown fuse. With a relay, you're just using a very small portion of the amperage of the key-on circuit to "tap" the relay "on", so it will draw the power directly from the battery. In other words, a relay is just a big switch - when wired as above, it turns on the accessory only when the key turns on, and the bulk of the power comes from directly from the battery. FWIW, I also like the non-resistor heated grips. I always had good luck with Dual Star: http://www.dual-star.com/index2/Rider/heated_grip_kit1.htm Their instructions are fairly OK - all you're doing is feeding power (from terminal 87 on the relay) to the switch, the power wires from switch to grips themselves, and grounding the whole works to the bike frame. Very clear if one has an iota of common sense, some patience, and can read... FWIW, I have an email out to Jim over at Eastern Beaver on the solution I'm looking to do for Heated grips, power for my Garmin 60CSx & an additional accessory plug, SAE or Powerlet or miniUSB... Once I hear back I'll be ordering my parts and give it a shot. I'll post up my step-by-step howto on what I did, maybe it will help others. I'll throw this on wrrdualsport.com and throw the link up over here. w00t! Muchos gracias for getting all the wiring info up here. I'm no stranger to wiring things around the house, like installing ceiling fans or outlets and I've wired up power and control systems for many r/c cars and planes, but for some reason, I get nervous when it comes to doing anything electrical on bikes or cars. Now I've got more info than I could possibly need! http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/main.html FWIW, I do electronics for a living, and the Eastern Beaver products are some of the highest quality products I've seen. I might get froggy and do my own circuitry, but if I'm lazy this is my choice for quality work. Top notch! Jeremy Yeah...that'd be good....if you do it right! Let me see it. The Eastern Beaver 3 circuit is indeed a very nice solution. And yes, I did put an article on that in WRRdualsport.com But BPG has also done a very nice job with his article above. A few more install photos and some nice write-up detail, and that would be publishable on WRRds.com Send me a PM... So Bash3r, do I at least get an "HF" on my sleeve? Now that would make it a grand shirt indeed! And, wouldn't blue & white be the appropriate color scheme? HF Thanks Ivan - front end is all set with your disc guard adpater/Acerbis disc guard, seal savers, Pirelli Scorpion tire, Bridgestone ultra heavy duty tube, and "balanced" wheel Threw on some black fat bars, 1" polished aluminum risers, and black Cycra Probends this evening.......hope to get my Dubach Can tomorrow (thought it would be here today ...... )........I'll throw that on tomorrow......FMF programmer should be here tomorrow too......still waiting on dealer to come through with 12T sprocket and rear rotor guard.....should've just ordered them online like everything else but figured I'd throw the local shop/dog a bone.......didn't realize he'd drop it Rear wheel will go back on Friday with or without 12T and rear rotor guard.......off to Superstition Mtn in east San Diego County this weekend with my gal pal and some of the kids/friends.......sand dunes, mud hills, sand washes......did I mention there was a lot of sand? ........that's the domain for my 520......it's prepped and ready! I'll be riding the WR250R through the whoops in the hardpack/mudhills working on the suspension settings.......haven't had an opportunity to screw with that at all since the bike went right up onto the stand after the initial motoman treatment and a couple of oil changes..... Looking forward to getting it off the stand and in the dirt! Chris, front sprocket from 250F is the same. res0zvle Adventurer Joined: May 19, 2008 Oddometer: 28 bpg - I used your detailed writeup to install my heated grips, thanks. Would I be able to run multiple electrical items (ie grips & gps) from the power lead supplied from the single relay installed? Or is it necessary to use multiple relays? Thanks AN idea: I've got heated grips on my xt600, and they are run thrugh a relay, making it impossible to swich n when ignition is of....BUT: I've wired my gps socket directly to the battery, and soldered in a fuse. This way the gps will stay on, and keep charging when i stop for gas and stuff like that. Use it or dont, I like it. Hey Crawdaddy, If you have not done so already, here is what you MUST do to prevent your seal savers from being destroyed by the awful Stock WR250R front fork protectors, remove them and replace with the ones from the WR250X, OR for now, please take them off and using a heat gun warm them up just to the point of melting, and bend them out more at the top and maybe even trim them. If you do not, your nice new Seal Savers will be completely ruined after just one mild ride. The damn fork protectors will wear a whole through the widest part of the Seal Saver fork combo and they wont be able to seal like they are supposed to do. As soon as you get your rear wheel on and can flex the front suspension you will see the problem right away. I gave up trying to get mine to NOT destroy my Seal Saver, and went ahead and got the fork guards from the X, which are only offered in Black. at least they are cheap and only around $12 each. Why Yamaha has two different designs for this other than brake line clamp mounting position is beyond me. The X protectors route the brake line a little higher (lower? can't remember offhand) but since they are stiffer and have that ridge line molded in them they just work better. I now have zero issue with fork rubbing Seal Saver destruction. Thanks for the pictures, the bike is looking great, I just wanted to give you a heads up to those damn for protectors...I know it pissed me off when I destroyed my new Blue Seal Savers in one day. I think you would feel the same way. Also, since you removed all of the AIS stuff, take this time to flip your horn up into this area. I just flipped the horn up and around using the same bracket. It will be pretty clear to you when you look at it....gets the horn out of the way of most of the crap being thrown at it. Shameless plug, I still have more of the spacers for anyone wanting to use the Acerbis Spider Evolution disc protector... The first batch of ten Case Savers are finished. Longer hardware arrived today. I have to finish the spacers for the rear bolt and they will be ready to ship. Here are some pictures: Final design Case Saver with neoprene foam tape on back to fill void between engine and minimize dirt filling this area and to help protect the engine: The case saver itself: The normal case saver with standoff design for OEM cover or soon to be available Sandman Cover shown with two non-standoff one-off parts for some customers who did not want to use a guard. Also shown is the new OEM spec longer bolts that will come with the case saver. You will get three new bolts, a case saver and a third spacer for the third rear most bolt. I should be able to post up some prices and when they can start to ship in a day or so. Those that wanted the non-extended spacer option (not a normal production part) will get your PM's today as your parts are ready to ship. Thanks again to all who expressed an interest in these. I hope you enjoy them as much as I did making them. Ivan Sandman Parts. P.S. I looked at my PM's, looks like only one person may have wanted the simple case saver with no standoffs, I have one more and since it is a one off early part I can ship it on Friday for $15. Any Takers? vwsandman... oh.. how I need your Case Saver & CS Cover !!!! let me know Meet my new 2010 WR250R! I've been wanting one of these for quite some time. I don't have many miles on her yet but think she's going to be a really fun bike! Brian Have a suggested online source for replacement plastics?? Congrats! Looks like your missing your tools. 2016 Wr250r Changes Source: https://advrider.com/f/threads/yamaha-wr250r-mega-thread.329337/page-413 Komentar :
Here's the gist of my post (that Sarah just linked to): All you need to do for grip heaters is pull power from the battery, but only when the key is on. This keeps you from accidentally leaving the grips on and draining the battery. To do this, a simple $4-6 12V auto relay is used: 12 V relays are pretty simple: they have 4 labeled terminals that you wire as follows: * 87 : this goes to your ACCESSORY that you are adding (in this case, this is wired to the positive lead for the grip heaters)<nobr style="font-weight: normal; font-size: 100%; color: darkgreen;" id="itxt_nobr_14_0"></nobr> * 85 : Connect to GROUND * 86 : Connect to any KEY-ON power source (I happened to use the blue positive wire for front running lights - use any wire that has power when the key is "ON") * 30 : Connects to the BATTERY (+ terminal). Definitely use nice thick wire, and install a fuse between the battery and the relay, as shown in the image above. So why not get power for the heated grips directly from the key-on circuit? Well, most bikes are wired with the bare minimum gauge of wire to get the job done. You tie a large-load accessory like heated grips, jacket or lights directly into an already stressed circuit, and you're almost guaranteed a blown fuse. With a relay, you're just using a very small portion of the amperage of the key-on circuit to "tap" the relay "on", so it will draw the power directly from the battery. In other words, a relay is just a big switch - when wired as above, it turns on the accessory only when the key turns on, and the bulk of the power comes from directly from the battery. FWIW, I also like the non-resistor heated grips. I always had good luck with Dual Star: http://www.dual-star.com/index2/Rider/heated_grip_kit1.htm Their instructions are fairly OK - all you're doing is feeding power (from terminal 87 on the relay) to the switch, the power wires from switch to grips themselves, and grounding the whole works to the bike frame. Very clear if one has an iota of common sense, some patience, and can read...
FWIW, I have an email out to Jim over at Eastern Beaver on the solution I'm looking to do for Heated grips, power for my Garmin 60CSx & an additional accessory plug, SAE or Powerlet or miniUSB... Once I hear back I'll be ordering my parts and give it a shot. I'll post up my step-by-step howto on what I did, maybe it will help others. I'll throw this on wrrdualsport.com and throw the link up over here. w00t!
Muchos gracias for getting all the wiring info up here. I'm no stranger to wiring things around the house, like installing ceiling fans or outlets and I've wired up power and control systems for many r/c cars and planes, but for some reason, I get nervous when it comes to doing anything electrical on bikes or cars. Now I've got more info than I could possibly need!
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/main.html FWIW, I do electronics for a living, and the Eastern Beaver products are some of the highest quality products I've seen. I might get froggy and do my own circuitry, but if I'm lazy this is my choice for quality work. Top notch! Jeremy
Yeah...that'd be good....if you do it right! Let me see it. The Eastern Beaver 3 circuit is indeed a very nice solution. And yes, I did put an article on that in WRRdualsport.com But BPG has also done a very nice job with his article above. A few more install photos and some nice write-up detail, and that would be publishable on WRRds.com Send me a PM... So Bash3r, do I at least get an "HF" on my sleeve? Now that would make it a grand shirt indeed! And, wouldn't blue & white be the appropriate color scheme? HF
Thanks Ivan - front end is all set with your disc guard adpater/Acerbis disc guard, seal savers, Pirelli Scorpion tire, Bridgestone ultra heavy duty tube, and "balanced" wheel Threw on some black fat bars, 1" polished aluminum risers, and black Cycra Probends this evening.......hope to get my Dubach Can tomorrow (thought it would be here today ...... )........I'll throw that on tomorrow......FMF programmer should be here tomorrow too......still waiting on dealer to come through with 12T sprocket and rear rotor guard.....should've just ordered them online like everything else but figured I'd throw the local shop/dog a bone.......didn't realize he'd drop it Rear wheel will go back on Friday with or without 12T and rear rotor guard.......off to Superstition Mtn in east San Diego County this weekend with my gal pal and some of the kids/friends.......sand dunes, mud hills, sand washes......did I mention there was a lot of sand? ........that's the domain for my 520......it's prepped and ready! I'll be riding the WR250R through the whoops in the hardpack/mudhills working on the suspension settings.......haven't had an opportunity to screw with that at all since the bike went right up onto the stand after the initial motoman treatment and a couple of oil changes..... Looking forward to getting it off the stand and in the dirt!
bpg - I used your detailed writeup to install my heated grips, thanks. Would I be able to run multiple electrical items (ie grips & gps) from the power lead supplied from the single relay installed? Or is it necessary to use multiple relays? Thanks
AN idea: I've got heated grips on my xt600, and they are run thrugh a relay, making it impossible to swich n when ignition is of....BUT: I've wired my gps socket directly to the battery, and soldered in a fuse. This way the gps will stay on, and keep charging when i stop for gas and stuff like that. Use it or dont, I like it.
Hey Crawdaddy, If you have not done so already, here is what you MUST do to prevent your seal savers from being destroyed by the awful Stock WR250R front fork protectors, remove them and replace with the ones from the WR250X, OR for now, please take them off and using a heat gun warm them up just to the point of melting, and bend them out more at the top and maybe even trim them. If you do not, your nice new Seal Savers will be completely ruined after just one mild ride. The damn fork protectors will wear a whole through the widest part of the Seal Saver fork combo and they wont be able to seal like they are supposed to do. As soon as you get your rear wheel on and can flex the front suspension you will see the problem right away. I gave up trying to get mine to NOT destroy my Seal Saver, and went ahead and got the fork guards from the X, which are only offered in Black. at least they are cheap and only around $12 each. Why Yamaha has two different designs for this other than brake line clamp mounting position is beyond me. The X protectors route the brake line a little higher (lower? can't remember offhand) but since they are stiffer and have that ridge line molded in them they just work better. I now have zero issue with fork rubbing Seal Saver destruction. Thanks for the pictures, the bike is looking great, I just wanted to give you a heads up to those damn for protectors...I know it pissed me off when I destroyed my new Blue Seal Savers in one day. I think you would feel the same way. Also, since you removed all of the AIS stuff, take this time to flip your horn up into this area. I just flipped the horn up and around using the same bracket. It will be pretty clear to you when you look at it....gets the horn out of the way of most of the crap being thrown at it. Shameless plug, I still have more of the spacers for anyone wanting to use the Acerbis Spider Evolution disc protector...
The first batch of ten Case Savers are finished. Longer hardware arrived today. I have to finish the spacers for the rear bolt and they will be ready to ship. Here are some pictures: Final design Case Saver with neoprene foam tape on back to fill void between engine and minimize dirt filling this area and to help protect the engine: The case saver itself: The normal case saver with standoff design for OEM cover or soon to be available Sandman Cover shown with two non-standoff one-off parts for some customers who did not want to use a guard. Also shown is the new OEM spec longer bolts that will come with the case saver. You will get three new bolts, a case saver and a third spacer for the third rear most bolt. I should be able to post up some prices and when they can start to ship in a day or so. Those that wanted the non-extended spacer option (not a normal production part) will get your PM's today as your parts are ready to ship. Thanks again to all who expressed an interest in these. I hope you enjoy them as much as I did making them. Ivan Sandman Parts. P.S. I looked at my PM's, looks like only one person may have wanted the simple case saver with no standoffs, I have one more and since it is a one off early part I can ship it on Friday for $15. Any Takers?
Meet my new 2010 WR250R! I've been wanting one of these for quite some time. I don't have many miles on her yet but think she's going to be a really fun bike! Brian
Komentar :
Posting Komentar